Palate and Missives
So what is it about the
German palate ? All you have to do is look at the ratings in Germany's
most 'textbook' of publications and you'll find it right there (Eichelmann
Deutschlands Weine 2007). The German buying public likes their
Rieslings DRY. Trocken,
Trocken, Trocken. The Eichelmann Guide has a 'best of' listing in
the back and there are essentially 2 Categories. 1) Rieslings 2) Sweet
and Sweeter Rieslings.
In category 2 you of course find TBAs, BAs and Auslesen. In Category 1
you find almost no Riesling without a Trocken (Dry) label. Mainly
Trocken Spaetlesen. In the US we don't get many of these. We get
regular Spaetlesen, Auslesen and Kabinetten. It seems the Germans are
all too happy to send us these ! I've had the opportunity to try
various Trocken versions of QmP Rieslings and often find them to be
more like Pinot Blanc/Gris than Riesling, but that is my palate. If you
check Wine Spectator reviews of this same (mainly 2005) vintage you'll
find plenty of 90+point Kabinetten and Spaetlesen, quite Trockenless.
One other thing you'll find in the Eichelmann guide is that their 100
point scale doesn't see the high side of 90 as often as WS. If you look
at the article from Decanter magazine
that is in the Wine Guide section of this website, it consists of a
comprehensive evaluation of 2005 Spaetlesen without a single Trocken
version. Some of these wines rated quite highly by the conservative
Decanter (UK) reviewers. You won't find a single one them in the 'Best
of' section of Eichelmann. Case in Point ?
2005
Losen-Bockstanz Wittlicher Portnersberg Spaetlese Feinherb
- Decanter - "Pure Fruit, quite
typical pure apple and lemon. Sweet Ripe Fruit, lovely balance and
fresh acidity. Light and elegant, long lemony finish. Very stylish and
pure. 15 years. 17.5/20 Highly Recommended 4 Stars"
- Eichelmann - "Other Wines Tasted -
No comment - 80/100"
So numerically there is a difference of 80 vs 88, but culturally the
chasm is huge. The non-Feinherb version
of this wine received a
5 Star Decanter award - "Fragrant
bouquet, Absolutely Classic, all
sorts of fruit flavours, concentrated, mineral but light. 20 years"
Eichelmann didn't review it OR Losen-Bockstanz didn't think to submit
it. Decanter doesn't give 5 stars out willy nilly. Interestingly,
Losen-Bockstanz is not available in the UK, and you'd be hard pressed
to find it in the USA, however....of all places Trader Joe's had their
2005 Kabinett for $7.00. Well, Losen-Bockstanz has 28 Hectacres, so
that is alot of grapes. If there was a diet version of Riesling, this
was it. The classic Riesling charateristics were there albeit in
watered down form. The ubiquitous Maxmillian Rheingau Kabinett Trader
Joe's has for $5ish is as good.
Using the power of generalization, the Germans like their Rieslings Dry
or very sweet, whereas the US/UK likes the middle zone, or importers
think we do, and I don't contend that they are wrong.
Unless you have a very good wineshop with a good German Wine selection,
the closest you'll get to a wine with the Dryness that Germans like
will be in a QbA. There are a couple of these in the Eichelmann 'Best
of' Section.
QbA vs QmP - So QmP means better quality than QbA ? On paper it does,
but in practice not necessarily. You will find that some winemakers
sell their QmP wine as a QbA
even though it would qualify for QmP quality, only to avoid the
restrictions of the higher classification. So yes, you can get a QbA
that hasn't been chapatalized,
but how can you know ? Email the winegrower......and wait and
wait.....or email the importer. They have nothing better to do !