A Look at Germany’s 13 Wine-growing Regions
2008 Harvest
German wine-growers are more than satisfied with the size
and quality of this year’s grape crop. Relatively cool autumn weather enabled
grapes to ripen gradually and remain healthy. In all, quality ranges from good
to very good, and even top qualities with more than
200 degrees Oechsle have been recorded. Crisp, lean
white wines with a fresh, fruity acidity are typical for vintage 2008. The overall harvest is estimated at 10
to 10.5 million hectoliters. The German Wine Institute/Mainz has compiled a summary
for each of
Mosel
Preliminary reports from growers in the
Nahe
Growers in the Nahe region are
talking about a “vintage made to order,” since both quantity and quality are
satisfactory. The harvest was underway by 20 September, and in the upper Nahe (western portion of the region), will not be completed
before early November. Cool weather in September prompted growers to “wait and
see” rather than harvest too early. As such, little by little must weights
continued to rise to respectable, above-average levels: for Müller-Thurgau,
Portugieser and/or Dornfelder
ca. 75 degrees Oechsle; Weiss- or Grauburgunder
(Pinot Blanc or Gris), usually more than 90 degrees.
Red varietals planted in vineyards with restricted yields also achieved
comparable must weights. As such, the “vintage made to order” supplies
sufficient quantities of QbA and Prädikat
wines (up to Spätlese and Auslese)
to restock many a depleted cellar. With regard to higher qualities, i.e.
lusciously sweet wines, this vintage cannot match that of 2007. Comparisons
with vintage 1998 are being made. Often, good results in 2008 required a selective preharvest.
In addition to high must weights this year, the young Nahe
wines are showing a refreshing acidity. Yields of more than 100 hl/ha will
probably result in an overall crop size of ca. 450,000 hl.
Pfalz
Heavy rainfall in mid-September reminded many Pfalz growers of the harvest in 2006. As such, the harvest
quickly began. Cool temperatures during the nights thereafter, though,
considerably alleviated fears of a repeat of the 2006 scenario just as quickly,
and the rest of the harvest calmly proceeded into the second half of October.
Prior to harvesting, growers took advantage of the extra time to remove bunches
affected with botrytis. The delay also helped reduce acidity levels in the grapes.
The young wines of the new vintage are on the lean side, but have good
structure and stimulating acidity, show typical varietal
fruit, and promise to be enjoyable to drink. The red wines are surprisingly
deep in color, and have promising, firm tannins. Throughout the region there
were also batches harvested with excellent must weights above 95 degrees Oechsle, but often quantities were lower than desired. Even
grapes of Beeren- and Trockenbeerenauslese
ripeness, such as a Rieslaner with 240 degrees Oechsle, could be harvested here and there, albeit with
great effort. A higher proportion of Prädikat wines
could be harvested in 2007; nevertheless, more than a third of this year’s crop
qualifies for Prädikat status. Riesling and the white
Pinots Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder
achieved very good must weights (on average, between 85 and 95 degrees Oechsle), as did Spätburgunder
(Pinot Noir), with a remarkable average must weight of 95 degrees Oechsle. Once again the overeall
size of the crop was slightly above the long-term average and is estimated at
2.4 million hl. Growers are calling it a “vintage made to order” – there is
lively demand for the good quality and sufficient quantity of vintage 2008.
Rheingau
After cool weather in September, Rheingau
growers decided to wait until October before beginning with the harvest of
Riesling and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), the region’s
two most important grape varieties. It was not until the second week of October
that the Riesling harvest reached its peak. For the most part, must weights
reached 80 to 85 degrees Oechsle. As such, the 2008 vintage will be known particularly for
high-quality Kabinett wines. Growers are satisfied
with the size of the crop, which is ca. ten percent higher than the long-term
average of 250,000 hl.
Rheinhessen
Ahr
Wine-growers in the
Baden
The harvest in
Franken
Lively, crisp and fresh; underpinned by a stable acidity;
striking aromas – vintage 2008 in
Franken. The wines are rich in flavor, but don’t have quite as much alcohol as
in years past. They show good aging potential. In particular, consumers can
look forward to terrific Silvaner wines. The grape
crop in Franken is estimated to have yielded 445,000 ha, or some 80,000 hl less
that last year. Yields are about 75 hl/ha, and must weights
averaged 86 degrees Oechsle. Two thirds of the crop qualify for Prädikat status.
The 2008 harvest in Franken will go
down in history as one of the longest ever. Early varieties were already being
harvested in mid-September. Thereafter, the weather was often variable –
sometimes beautiful harvest weather, sometimes rain – nervewracking
for growers. In the end: particularly the late-ripening varieties, such as
Riesling and Silvaner, were clearly the winners.
Hessische Bergstrasse
Although a small number of wineries in the Hessische Bergstrasse still have
a few grapes hanging on the vine in hope of being able to produce lusciously
sweet wines, the main harvest began in mid-September and ended on 25 October
with very good results: high must weights, good yields, and a ripe acidity are
the hallmarks of vintage 2008 in this
very small region with only 440 ha/ca. 1,100 acres of vines. Among the
important varietals, such as Riesling and Spätburgunder,
yields averaged 80 hl/ha. Riesling reached 85 degrees Oechsle
and above. In terms of quantity and quality, the white wine harvest is similar
to vintage 2004. With average must weights of 95 degrees Oechsle,
growers expect powerful Spätburgunder wines,
comparable with those of 2005. Overall, this year’s
crop of roughly 35,000 hl is slightly larger than that of 2007.
Mittelrhein
The Riesling harvest in the Mittelrhein
began in October. There was no need to rush, since grapes in the steep sites
were healthy and water supplies were sufficient. The late start enabled the
region’s principle variety, Riesling, to profit from a long growing season and
ample time for fine aromas to develop. Approximately half of the crop qualified
for Prädikat status, an indicator of this year’s good
quality. With yields of ca. 100 hl/ha and an overeall
anticipated quantity of 40,000 hl, this year’s harvest was the best in nearly a
decade.
Saale-Unstrut
Growers in the Saale-Unstrut
region harvested some 50,000 hl of grape juice this year, or 2,000 hl more than
in 2007. The harvest began in mid-September and ended in late October.
Late-ripening varietals, in particular, were harvested up to 14 days later than
usual, which resulted in higher must weights. Individual growers even report
very good results, with must weights of 95 degrees Oechsle
for Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc) or Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier).
This year, late-ripening varieties were clearly the winners. The wines are
appealing with their pure, distinctive fruitiness – comparable with last year’s
vintage in terms of quality. Many Saale-Unstrut
growers have left a few grapes on the vine in hope of a possible Eiswein harvest. Last year, the frosty temperatures
necessary for this specialty were not in the cards.
Sachsen
Despite a timely bud burst and early blossoming, the grape
harvest in Sachsen did not begin earlier than normal.
Cool weather in early September delayed the start until the middle of the
month. One month later, with the harvest of Riesling and Gewürztraminer, the
main harvest in 2008 was completed.
Yields were only about 55 hl/ha, and thus, the total size of the crop is a mere
23,500 hl – comparable with the results of last year’s harvest. Must weights
were the same or slightly above longstanding values and overall, Sachsen’s 2008
vintage is of good average quality. Two-thirds of the crop yielded QbA wines; one-third, Prädikat
wines. The new wines are expected to be fairly light and fruity.
Württemberg
Vintage 2008 was
very good in Württemberg. Must weights were remarkable. Thanks to warm, sunny
days alternating with cool nights during the ripening period, all varieties
have well-developed, ripe aromas. As such, consumers can look forward to wines
with a pronounced varietal character. The harvest of
the early-ripening varietals Acolon (a crossing of Lemberger and Dornfelder), Müller-Thurgau and Dornfelder
began in mid-September. The entire harvest of late-ripening varieties, such as Trollinger, Lemberger and
Riesling, took place in October. Weather conditions were stable and late autumn
days sunny, thereby enabling growers to wait for aromas to fully develop and
harvest at the optimal moment. Must weights of the most important varieties
were mostly 75 to 85 degrees Oechsle, or solid Kabinett and Spätlese wines. This
year’s crop yielded about ten percent less than in 2007. Yields were
approximately 100 hl/ha, so that the total quantity harvested is around 1.15
million hl – nearly 90 million liters of which were harvested by Württemberg’s
“Weingärtnergenossenschaften,” or cooperative
wineries. Red grape varieties accounted for nearly three-fourths of the
harvest.
Grape Must Harvest in Germany in 2008: Preliminary Estimates
As of 30 October 2008
wine-growing region
estimated yields in hl
change in % from 2007
Ahr
41,000
-10
Baden
1,400,000
+5
Franken
445,000
-18
Hessische Bergstrasse
36,000
+1
Mittelrhein
40,000
+12
Mosel
930,000
-2
Nahe
450,000
+13
Pfalz
2,400,000
-5
Rheingau
250,000
-4
Rheinhessen
2,900,000 – 3,000,000
+2
Saale-Unstrut
50,000
+1
Sachsen
23,500
-8
Württemberg
1,150,000
-11
total
ca.10 – 10.5 million hl
+\- 2